| Pictured here is the BIG BLUE, flying Corporate colors. This ship was lost
with all hands when the navigational and helm computers locked up and the ship
flew into a star at full power. Similar circumstances later resulted in the
loss of sister ships BIG MAC and BIG ZERO. CONCEPT The original idea
here was to create another ship from the Cinderella world, this
time a smallish courier or orbital fighter. After building it, I got to
wondering if I could believably portray a very large ship with a very small
rocket model.
PARTS LIST
BT-20 6" long (153mm)
NC-20 Estes cockpit style from the assortment pack
BT-80 1" wide (26mm), sliced in half to give you a semi-circle
mini-engine spacing tool a little yellow tube Estes provides to insert a
mini-engine block into a BT-5. Or use a 1.75" (45mm) length of BT-5.
mini-engine mount *without* the engine hook
shock cord
streamer
1/8" launch lug about .75" (18mm) long
1/16" (2mm) balsa stock
Rainbow tape aka Prism tape, look in craft or auto parts stores.

CONSTRUCTION 1. Mark the BT-20 body tube for 4 fins, spaced 90
degrees apart.
2. Assemble the motor mount, glue it into the body tube.
3. Cut out the 2 fins according to the diagram and round the leading and
trailing edges. Leave the root and tip edges square.
4. Glue the 2 fins to opposite sides of the body tube, even with the back
end.
5. Glue the spacing tool to the bottom of the body tube along the marked fin
line.
6. Glue the launch lug inside the spacing tool, making sure its
straight.
7. Glue the BT-80 arch to the fin tips.
8. Make an Estes style shock cord mount and glue it into the front of the
body tube.
9. Attach the nosecone.
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FINISHING Fill before assembly, then prime and sand as youd like
before the final color coats. I used gloss white overall, then masked and shot
dark blue. When completely dry, black automotive pinstriping tape was cut to
shape and applied on the bottom. A little red model paint was then brushed into
the inside of the lower tube. Next I printed custom decals (Tango Papa decal
paper) to simulate the cargo hold doors and portholes visible towards the nose.
A steady hand with a fine black felt tip pen can also do the detailing work.
Spray the rocket with clearcoat to protect the decals/pen detailing, then apply
rainbow tape across the top of the arch. Alternately, you can
finish the Starbow as a small courier (or fighter), as originally intended.
Mask and paint the cockpit, add some lettering and striping, and youre
good to go. (Hmmmm, the Corporation discovered that a 1/400 , fitted
with different engine technologies, was a capable craft in its own
right...)
LAUNCH REPORTS
Make sure you friction fit the motor well, although I suspect that if it
spits the casing instead of the streamer, itll be light enough to tumble
recover without major damage.
First flight of the Starbow was made using a 1/2A3-2T. Very quick
acceleration, but the delay was too short. Recovered without real damage,
although a minor paint chip occured at the top edge of the body tube, probably
from the nosecone ejection at speed.
Second flight was made using a 1/2A3-4T. Another quick boost, and this time
the delay was acceptable. Recovered without problems.
Third flight was attempted with an A10-3T. At ignition, the engine
CATOd, firing the entire propellant upwards through the body, knocking
the nose cone off, then continuing upwards in a flaming mass. The casing was
fired backwards, dinging the rear edge against the lip of the blast deflector,
and landing in the grass about 5 feet from the pad. Inspection showed
absolutely no damage done to the Starbow. Very lucky!
Fourth flight was successful on an A10-3T. Perfect flight, perfect recovery.
Unfortunately, although the Starbow survived a CATOd A10, she
didnt fare as well against a 10 year olds knee. She was
accidentally crushed. The remains have been towed into spacedock where a
complete rebuild is under way. Photos will be coming as soon as the Starbow is
ready to fly again.
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