(Contributed - by Douglas Gardei )
The Super Eagle Kit is designed to take the higher 18mm D size motors
This is the second Quest Quick Kit I have built. From the first one I know that
the construction is a bit flimsy. The only thing that is preventing
the motor from shooting up inside the rocket is two plastic tabs. My concern is
what will happen when those tabs melt down via the ejection charges of the
motors used? If that happens, nothing will prevent the motor from launching,
leaving the rocket behind. Due to this concern, I decided to beef up the motor
The supplies needed for my modification:
- 4 BT20-50 Centering Rings
- 1 BT5-10 (Thrust Ring)
The motor mount is
mounted inside the two plastic halves of the rocket. In order for the centering
rings to fit, the plastic tabs used to support the motor tube have to be
removed. I did this with a sharp hobby knife. I noticed that the 18mm tube was
too wide for the centering rings to fit over them, so I replaced the Quest
motor tube with an Estes tube (which the rings were designed for anyway). I
glued the into the forward end of the motor tube. After checking
the alignment, I glued the centering rings to both ends of the motor tube,
giving enough space between the rings to clear the plastic centering rings on
the halfs. (See photo).
The fin can was then finished using plastic cement according to the
instructions. Since paper centering rings are now used, the plastic motor
can not be used. Any motor used in this rocket will have to be
friction fitted into the motor tube.
The Super Eagle comes with three lengths of red tubing, one shorter than the
other two. The majority of plastic parts in this kit are red. These parts
include the fin can halves, four fins, , two tube couplers, shock cord
anchor, and the black support ring and motor retainer. Also included is a blue
18mm motor tube,
and elastic cords, two 14" parachutes with pre-cut
and tape disks.
The rest of the rocket assembly was straight forward. The fit of the plastic
tube counplers in the is a bit loose, so alignment is an issue when
gluing the tubes together. Also, care has to be taken to make sure the launch
lug tabs are lined up with each other. The nose cone section also had a loose
fit, but a couple wraps of masking tape fixed this.
The rocket does not require painting, and the decals were easy to apply.
out of 5
March 1st, while helping out with the Team America Rocketry Challenge, I got
the opportunity to try out my Super Eagle. I loaded the model with a Quest C6-3
and Estes , packed both chutes, and placed the rocket onto the launch
pad. The flight with the C6-3 was wobbly. It went about 200-300 ft, and both
chutes deployed. The rocket was recovered without any damage. I thought about
trying the rocket with a D13 on or D24, but I decided against it due to the
small field size we were using. The D motor flight will take place at the April
½ out of 5
I believe my two improvements to the kit: upgrading the motor mount and tying
the payload section to the is a good idea. The rocket is underpowered
with the C6 motor, and leaving the two sections seperated is an invitation for
loosing something. If I build another Super Eagle, I would probabily opt for a
24mm or a 29mm motor mount. With some reinforcements to the fins, I can see
this rocket flying great with an G40-10W.
½ out of 5
(Contributed - by John Lee - 01/11/10)
QuickKit, , 18mm motors, Parachute Recovery
While being bummed out about having various projects under construction or repair and still being unable to work
on anything in my available time due to drying glue, paint, etc, I decided that one more wouldn't hurt and looked for
an easy one near the top of the stack. The Quest Super Eagle was the "winner".
The Super Eagle is a Quick Kit that goes together quickly and easily. It is a 4FNC design with an 18mm motor mount
and intended for separation and recovery in two parts, both under .
The first step given in the instructions is to tie the end of the Kevlar
thread to the end of the elastic cord with an overhand knot. The opposite end of the Kevlar
was then supposed to be slipped through the loop on the plastic fin can and secured with a pair of overhand knots used
as stoppers. Instead of doing that, I tied the Kevlar
to the loop.
The instructions then called for inserting the preslotted motor tube into half of the plastic fin can and then
sliding the other half of the fin can in place and cementing the two halves together. Although my kit seemed to be
sealed when I opened it, the motor tube was already in place and the two halves of the fin can were together and being
held in place with the provided end ring. It was not cemented. I pried apart the two halves and applied Plastruct to
cement them together.
The instructions next called for me to use tube type cement to glue the lowest of the body tubes to the fin can.
Instead, I used a few drops of and also used the epoxy to further fasten the end of the shock cord.
The fins were of plastic and were slotted to be received by the slots in the plastic fin can. I had some trouble
with 3 out of the four and needed to do some with a razor to get them to fit. When I did, they slid into place
and I secured them with Plastruct instead of the recommended tube cement.
The kit comes with two plastic couplers to join the body tubes which are identical in every respect. It also comes
with a single read plate designed to be glued into one of the couplers. I used Plastruct again and then fitted the
into what would be the foremost of the body tubes. As with the rear tube, I used a drop of epoxy to make the
The instruction say not to glue the nose cone into the body tube. Presumably this is so that the forward section
can serve as a payload . Since I don't do payload flying, I almost went ahead and glued it but I decided it would
hurt nothing to leave it free. I did test fit the nose cone into the forward tube and found that it was extremely
loose. I fitted a piece of masking tape onto the of the cone and it then fit nicely. That completed the
It took a while to get back to the Super Eagle after getting to this point because life got busy and because I
needed a long piece of 1/8" rod to align the launch lugs before gluing the coupler into place. I had 12"
pieces lying around the shop but I needed a long piece for this long rocket. When I got a standard rod, it was a simple
matter to mix a few drops of epoxy and smear them onto the inside of
tube. The upper section of the tube was then pushed into place and the rod was used to align the lugs before the epoxy
With that, construction was done but I had a slight modification to make.
The kit is designed to recover in 2 sections. I prefer to bring it all back down together. With that in mind, I
tied an extra 20" of elastic to the elastic already provided and then tied that to the nose cone.
The rocket was mostly pre-finished. The fin can, couplers and nose cone were all molded from red plastic. The body
tubes were already red. All that was needed in the way of finishing was the application of some stickers.
I am not a fan of crack and peel stickers but they are appropriate for a kit of this level. That said, the ones I
received were of good quality and nicely complemented the existing colors. Four blue rings of white stars were applied
around the BT at locations indicated by the face card.
Four US flags were provided. I placed one on each fin.
The last stickers were a pair of name logos. One was applied to each side of the lowest section of body tube.
With that, my Super Eagle had only to wait for the next launch window.
Construction Rating: 4 out of 5
The day of the maiden flight arrived and it was cold and still. I installed a 15" nylon chute and loaded an
Estes B6-4 motor. It was then taken to the pad and set up. Lift off looked good with the rocket going straight up. It
was a nice, fairly slow takeoff. The coast phase looked pretty good as well. It did not go very high and started to arc
over. Ejection occurred when the rocket was horizontal and the chute deployed perfectly. It drifted down and landed a
few yards from the pad.
For the second flight, I wanted some more power and I had a new bag of Quest C6-3s sitting handy so I reloaded
with one of those. I set up next to the beautiful Dr. Zooch Soyuz that Stu Young had gotten for Christmas and I was
glad to wait a bit so I could see it fly. My turn came after waiting a bit more so we could all help to find the pieces
of the Soyuz that had its Kevlar
burn through. Then it was time. The motor ignited and the rocket lifted even slower than before. The rocket started out
fairly straight. It soon started to lean into the direction of travel, though. It was like the motor was struggling to
keep it going fast enough. It was easily horizontal or ever a bit down pointing as the coast phase began. It was
definitely point down when ejection occurred. It came down safely but it was a bit of a near thing.
For the third flight I wanted to use an Estes C6-3 to compare it to the Quest version. Thus one was installed and
it was taken to the pad for its third flight of the day. Ignition occurred right when the button was pushed and it took
off well, not much faster than it had with the Quest motor. It boosted straight and did not arc over. It soon passed
the to which the Quest motor had taken it. It then coasted a good deal farther. Ejection occurred while it was
still moving up but the chute was good and it came home safely.
Flight Rating: 4 out of 5
Overall, this was a nice simple kit that looks reasonably good with its precolored parts. The performance was not
stellar but it had close to a perfect profile on the B6. The Quest C6 was disappointment but the Estes C6 worked
perfectly. My supposition is that this bird was designed and the motors specified when the Quest ones still came from
Overall Rating: 4 out of 5
Persons wishing to keep track of this rocket can do so here: