
(Contributed - by Kevin Drayson - 10/15/00)
Brief:
This is a semi-scale model of the Canadian , manufactured by
Bristol Aerospace. According to PML, it is designed to fly on G-I motors.
Construction:
The kit comes with three (3) pre-cut G10 fins, a pre-slotted QT airframe (or an
optional phenolic one), a 4:1 plastic nose cone, plywood centering rings,
a 30 inch nylon parachute, 38mm phenolic motor mount tube, a 1/4 inch brass
launch lug, a heavy-duty nylon strap, a length of woven elastic, and some
"peel 'n stick"-type decals.
I've had the opportunity to build both the QT and phenolic version of this
kit. Frankly, I don't really have a preference in which material I used, now
that I've tried both. Phenolic is the way to go if you intend to glass the
airframe, and use bigger motors. However, if you intend to stick to mid-power
motors, and H or light I motors, then QT is by far the way to go. I really
likely not having to fill in that spiral, which I've found can be a pretty
serious job on phenolic tubes. The thing to watch is that you sand thoroughly
(with coarse grit) any QT parts you are epoxying.
The instructions for the kit are pretty basic and straight-forward. There's
not a lot you can write up, for a basic 3FNC rocket anyway. Construction steps
are logical, and any "gotcha's" are pointed out... like making sure
the piston strap (which is epoxied to the motor mount) is not positioned in a
manner to interfere with the installation of the fins. In both cases, I build
the kit stock, except for the home-made motor retention, and the addition of a
vent-hole in my second one (the QT version).
All the parts fit well, aside for the usual sanding of the centering rings
and fins to get a precise fit.
No motor retention is provided, so I installed my own version of
"Kaplow Klips", a pair of blind nuts in the aft centering ring, and a
pair of mirror mounting brackets I picked up at the hardware store. these
things turned out to be a perfect fit when using motors, even with the 29mm
adapter in place. Overall, the toughest part of building this rocket was
waiting for the epoxy to cure.
Finishing:
This is where that Quantum Tubing really comes into it's own. When I built the
phenolic version of this kit, I spent a lot of time filling and sanding those
darned spiral grooves in the airframe. With the QT, all I have to do was rough
it up a bit to help the primer adhere! Painting was pretty simple. I gave the
ship a couple of coats of Krylon white primer, sanding between each coat. Next,
I shot several coats of gloss white on one fin (I picked the one opposite the
launch lug) and the nose cone, again sanding between coats. After that, I set
the nose aside, masked off the white fin, and sprayed the rest of the rocket
with a gloss red Krylon. Again, I used several coats, with wet-sanding between
each. Then, it was necessary to mask off the rest of the rocket so I could
paint the brown band at the front of the airframe. That was it for paint. Once
it had time to completely dry, I gave it a couple of coats of Krylon Clear
Coat.
Now, on the real rocket, there is a narrow metal band at the very top of the
airframe. To replicate this, I used a strip of silver decal from an auto
detailing kit. It adheres well, and looks about right. Also, the real rocket
has a pair of white stripes running down the side of the rocket. I chose to not
paint these, since masking materials and I don't get along real well. So, I got
a length of white vinyl decal material from a local art supply shop. I made
measurements from Peter Alway's Rockets of the World, and cut out the strips I
needed. I was worried about how well this stuff would adhere, but it's doing
fine so far. After that, I applied the decals, referencing both the kit
instructions, and Rockets of the World. These went on with a minimum of fuss
(for peel 'n stick, anyway). Finally, I applied a final coat of clear to seal
everything. The final product looks pretty slick!
Construction Rating:
4
½ out of 5
Flight:
PML recommends a variety of motors, from G to I for this rocket. My first
flight (and only, for the phenolic one) was to be my CAR level 1 cert flight,
using an H123 with a 10 second delay. Unfortunately, the motor suffered a
blown-by a split second after lift-off. The nose, piston and parachute were
blown free (the nylon strap was burned through), and the rocket continued
straight up with a fireball where the nose should have been. Fortunately the
flames burned out before it lawn-darted, but the impact destroyed whatever was
left of the airframe, forward of the fins. Still... despite the sudden,
low-speed deployment of the nose and chute (the rocket had just cleared the
rod), it had managed to continue on a stable flight-path.
Flight number two was an F50-6, approximately a year after the first
disaster. PML does not recommend anything smaller than a G for this rocket, but
Rocksim shows a predicted altitude of about 700 feet on this motor. Boost was
nice and straight, and the flight was nominal. The only downside was the rocket
landing on a runway, which scarred it a bit, and took a small chunk out of one
fin-tip.
Recovery:
The shock cord system in the kit is a two-piece affair: a thick nylon strap
connects the piston to the motor mount. The piston, in turn, is connected to
the nose cone by a length of woven elastic (I understand this has recently been
replaced with tubular nylon). The nylon parachute is attached to the upper
length of shock cord. The piston itself is a phenolic tube coupler, a slotted
bulkhead, and a D-ring. Seems to work well, but you have to pay attention to
the fit of the piston. Prior to the launch of my first BB V, I found that the
heat of the day had caused the piston to fit a bit too tightly in the airframe,
and had to sand it down a bit to loosen the fit. The provided chute seems
plenty tough, and is probably a good size, as long as you know the rocket will
be recovering on softer ground. If you run the risk of it landing on something
really unforgiving (like a runway), I'd suggest you move up a size for the
parachute.
Flight Rating:
4
½ out of 5
Summary:
Overall, I'm very happy with my Vb. It's a slick-looking rocket,
and flies on a nice variety of motors. I'd say it's an excellent kit for anyone
who is just moving up to , and wants to be able to fly a rocket on both HPR
and mid-power motors. As for pros and cons... well, I don't really have any
cons for this rocket. The design is basic enough that you'd have to work at
making problems. In fact, it's simplicity is probably its biggest pro, making
it a good starting point in HPR.
Overall Rating:
4
½ out of 5

(by Stephen Corban - 02/01/03)
Brief:
This is a sport scale rocket that features PML's new . This rocket
makes a good choice for the mid power to high power .
Construction:
This rocket has one section of PML Quantum Tube, with no payload section. There
are 2 centering rings made of sturdy plywood, and 3 G10 fins. There is a
plastic nosecone, but the only hardware included is the D ring used in the
piston. When both straps are tied together, the shockcord is about 12 feet
long.
The instructions on this kit are TOP NOTCH, as are all of PML's. The
instructions guide the builder step by step with pictures and detailed
descriptions. No templates were included, or needed with this kit because of
the pre-slotted tube. This rocket goes together just like any other high power
kit.
All of the parts fit together perfectly, which made it very sturdy. I added
2 part foam to the fincan along with the internal fillets to make this more
sturdy. can be bought at most hobby stores. Stick with the PML or
Northeast Hobby Products foam.
Finishing:
Finishing this bird was an ease. The QT eliminates all need for filling tube
spirals, so a quick sand with 400 grit sand paper and it was ready to paint. A
couple coats of primer, then went over that with red automotive paint. Masked
off the fin and the top and painted red again. The reason I painted the red
again after I masked off the areas is if any paint runs through it will not
mess up the paint job, and the red coat seals the tape down. i then went ahead
with the brown and white and painting was complete. The only decal not included
for this was the white stripes that go up and down the sides. Call an
automotive or sign shop to get in touch with some of this. After that, a clear
coat was put on and the bird looked awesome.
Construction Rating:
5
out of 5
Flight:
Well, PML reccomends every motor from about a F50 up to the J570. I have
currently flown this bird twice, both on G64-7's. These flights were both
atraight as an arrow to about 1200', and the 7 delay is perfect. The piston
ejection system eliminated the need for wadding, therefore preperation went
much quicker. For motor retention I used 4-40 blind nuts in the aft centering
ring, and a pair of screen clips to hold in the casing.
Recovery:
This rocket has the piston system, which consists of a bottom piston strap, the
piston, and the top piston strap. I replaced my bottom piston strap with Kevalr
for strength. This rocket comes down FAST. I have never seen a rocket fall
faster, but as long as you are dropping it on turf or a field you'll be
alright. If near cement, get a bigger chute. The first flight suffered no
damage, but the second flight inflicted minor paint cracking and chipping in
the fin area. This was because the rocket was spinning on it's during
descent.
Flight Rating:
4
out of 5
Summary:
This was a great rocket to build and fly. It is easy to assemble, and is a
great performer in the sky.
Pros-
- Easy Construction - The wonderful step by step instructions that PML
provides makes construction a snap for all skill levels
- Quality Materials - The new Quantum Tube and G10 fins make this rocket a
nearly indestructible craft that will survive longer than any paper/wood
rocket.
- Piston - This wonderful idea eliminates wadding, while not having to sorry
about clogging up a
- High Quality Parachute - The PML parachute is a 6-panel parachute with a
spill hole in the middle. These parachutes were ranked #1 in a recent survey.
Cons -
- Quantum Tube - This is tough stuff, don't get me wrong, but the
disadvantages of QT outweigh the advantages. The first and foremost reason I
dislike this material is because epoxy does not like to stick to it. I have
popped more fillets with QT that any other material. This tube also expands and
shrinks in different temperatures causing the paint to crack, and pistons to
stick
- Piston - This is a con because if your body tube isn't properly cleaned,
or if the body tube shrinks the piston will stick or jam. This will result in a
at the least, but probably a destroyed fin can and ejected motor.
- Shock Cord - The bottom piston strap on this rocket should be protected in
some way whether it is with a Kevlar®
sheath, or be totally replaced with a Kevlar®
shock cord.
Overall Rating:
4
out of 5