(Contributed - by Philip Levanda - 04/17/05)
This is an extremely versatile high flyer. Capable of stable flight on as
little as an F20 through J motors. It is 2.2 inches in diameter and 39.5 inches
long. It has three sharp fins for a very sleek, fast look.
The kit comes with a main and a payload body tube. The recovery system is a 28
inch parachute. The body tube is slotted and the fins slide through to mount
directly to the MMT.
If you've built a LOC kit before there are no surprises here. This was my
5th LOC kit and I could have done it blindfolded. This rocket is near minimum
diameter with very little space
between the MMT and the body tube. Applying enough epoxy to
secure the fins to the MMT took some dowels and patience. Also because of the
small space there is not a lot of room for a positive motor retention system.
My advice would be to pull the motor mount tube out 1/4 inch from the bottom so
you can install a Slimline retainer. The instructions are minimalist but if you
have put a few mid power rockets together you can manage this easily.
I applied some nice smooth fillets to the fins then primed and painted the
rocket in a patriotic red, white, and blue scheme. LOC tubes paint nice and
have very little groove to fill in on the tube.
½ out of 5
The recommended motor list for this rocket is like few others: F,G,H,I,J
motors. You could probably get away with a composite E even but I wouldn't go
with a J without fiberglassing the rocket first. My first flight with this
rocket I used a 38 to 29 mm motor adapter that LOC sells, the MMT-2. I loaded a
G33-7 and some wadding and trekked out to the mid power pads. I forgot to leave
room for a Slimline so I carefully drilled a few holes and screwed in a few
clips for motor retention. I used wRASP and it predicted a flight of 1945 feet.
It went up fast and straight and was a beautiful flight on a perfect day at a
METRA launch. No spin, just a perfect dart to 2K feet and ejection.
The chute popped perfectly and the rocket literally drifted 2000 feet down to
my feet. Well, within ten feet of my feet. Recovery doesn't get much easier
than that! It is perfect chute for this rocket. Not too fast or slow.
Here is a link to a video of the logged flight. Here.
½ out of 5
Because of its high flight, I'm not sure I would use this rocket on an L1 cert.
If you are looking for a nicely priced 1 mile capable rocket, this might be the
one for you. It flies straight and fast and also has a payload section for
timers and altimeters if you want to put in alternate method of recovery or see
how high you went, respectively. I highly recommend this rocket. It is a nice
sleek design and soars smooth.
½ out of 5
(Contributed - by Andrew Grippo - 05/30/05)
This is a simple to construct single stage, mid to high power rocket with a
payload section and through the wall fin design. Kit is designed to use motor
ejection for parachute deployment. A 38mm motor mount is included with the kit.
A motor mount adapter is not included for the use of 29mm motors.
Kit components come packaged in a heavy duty bag and include: Two LOC heavy
duty glassine coated paper tubes for the airframe, one is 22" long and
pre-slotted for through the wall construction of the fins and the other tubing
is 12" long and intended for the payload section. There are also three
pre-cut plywood fins, two plywood 38mm centering rings, one plywood bulkhead,
one plastic nose cone, 18" nylon parachute, 10" of 38mm LOC glassine
coated paper tube for the motor mount, 17' of 1/2" flat elastic shock
cord, one 3/8" stainless steel eye hook for parachute attachment to
bulkhead, one 5.75" long coupler tube, and one 8.5" x 11" page
instruction sheet with three illustrations showing a rear view, a side exposed
view of centering ring/motor mount tube assembly in main airframe, and the
began construction by wicking the edges of the body tubes and motor mount with
CA for added strength and to prevent the paper tubes from fraying during
sanding. LOC instructions begin by requiring the modeler to remove the glassine
coating from the MMT by peeling the coating off or sanding it down to allow for
better adhesion of the epoxy. The MMT centering rings are sized to have this
layer removed and fit very well. I opted to sand the glassine layer with 100
grit sandpaper and used 30 minute epoxy throughout the build. I added a third
centering ring to provide support under the forward area of the fins in the
event of hard landing to prevent a fin from crushing the body tube. The fin
slots cut into the body tube were a little short and a quick sanding cleared
this up. The coupler tube fit in the body tubes a little loosely so a thin
layer of epoxy was used to build the of the coupler up.
I built the rocket mostly stock but did make some basic modifications. I
added an system to the coupler tube to do away with using
wadding. Since the kit came with a payload section, I used a zipperless design.
I also attached rail buttons instead of using the 1/4" launch lug that is
included in the kit.
The LOC/Precision instructions are minimal but complete and easy to follow.
The assembly order is typical of most kits and begins with the motor mount
assembly and then continues with adding the fins. Next is the payload section
and attachment of LOC shock cord by tying one end to the nose cone and the
other end to a small piece of nylon string that is glued to the inside of the
body tube. Since I used a zipperless design I didn't use the LOC method of
shock cord attachment to the body tube so I don't know if it works.
PROs: Very sturdy kit that builds quickly and easily, parts are good
quality, and this rocket should stand up to many flights.
Elmers Wood Finish was used to fill the small spirals in the body tubes and
fill the grain in the fins. Model Master Red Putty was used to fill the
imperfections on the nose cone and covering pass for the fin fillets. Several
coats of Rustoleum primer were sprayed and wet sanded for a smooth finish. The
intermediate coat was applied with Rustoleum Gloss White and this was followed
with several coats of Boyd Grape Pearl and finally three coats of Rustoleum
Clear Gloss was applied to protect to the coating and give the color depth.
PROs: The body tubes are of very good quality and very easy to work with
and finish. The spirals are so small and shallow that just priming them would
probably take care of them. The plywood fins are very easy to finish as well
since there is very little exposed grain to deal with.
CONs: Decals do not come with the kit but are available for download at the
LOC website if you want to make your own decals to match the rocket pictured on
the instruction sheet.
out of 5
LOC/Precision recommends the rocket be used with mid and high power engines up
to an I357. With the low weight of the rocket I would recommend sticking to the
manufacturer list unless you want to see this baby go mach.
Final weight came in at 20 ounces. With the 38mm motor tube this rocket can
be launched with an Aerotech J350W-14 and per Rocksim can be sent to about
7000' and hit 960 mph.
PROs: Large variety of motors available for this kit and it's designed
strong enough to handle them.
LOC recommends use of masking tape for friction fitting the motor into the
motor mount and I completely disagree. I never use the friction fit method for
retaining any motors above an Estes C or D. I installed two #4-40 brass
threaded inserts designed to accept machined Allen screws into the aft
centering ring and used small clips to hold the motor in place.
I used the supplied elastic shock cord and the nylon chute supplied with the
kit. With an ejection baffle built into the rocket there was no need for a
chute protector or wadding which made prepping the rocket on launch day that
much easier and faster when getting it ready for flight.
The parachute shroud
lines are not of the best quality but they work OK. The chute diameter is sized
correctly for the weight of the rocket. I added a small to the chute and
it worked well. There wasn't any excessive rotation of the rocket on the way
down on any of the flights.
I flew the Nuke Pro-Maxx three times at the Jim Turner Memorial launch held
at the McGregor Field near Waco, TX, and all three flights were outstanding. I
began with a AT G33J-7 and followed up with a AT G104T-6 and then a CTI G69-9.
The rocket handled each motor well and delays were right on the money.
out of 5
This is an excellent rocket that meets the needs of a flyer interested in
getting into mid power rocketry. It is well designed, well built, and boosted
straight as an arrow.
PROs : Easy to build and easy to fly on different size fields with the
large assortment of motors that can be used.
out of 5
(Contributed - by Lance Alligood - 01/24/06)
The LOC/Precision Nuke Pro Maxx is a simple, robust high performing 3FNC
mid/high power rocket that can fly on motors as little as an F all the way up
to a the largest 38mm J motor that you can fit into the rocket.
My big reason for getting this kick is that I fly a lot of H and I powered
rockets. I prefer my rockets to be light and small as well. My
Banshee only has a 29mm MMT, so that limits just how much I can punish that
rocket. I wanted a rocket that I could 'get medieval' on...and the Nuke Pro
Maxx seems to fit that bill. rockets would be ideal but are
often very challenging because they tend to be visually difficult to track with
their small size, offer minimal payload and recovery space, and limit choices
for motor retention. The Nuke Pro Maxx strike a nice balance of my wants by
being still quite slender but affording the advantages of non-minimum diameter
The parts list:
- 1 2.26"d plastic nose cone
- 1 12"l x 2.26"d payload tube
- 1 22"l x 2.26"d body tube (pre-marked for fins and launch lug)
- 1 coupler
- 1 birch plywood bulkhead
- 1 screw eye
- 3 1.8" thick birch plywood fins
- 2 birch plywood centering rings
- 1 10"l x 1.63"d motor mount tube
- 1 18" nylon parachute
- 10ft elastic shock cord
- 1 shock cord mount
- 1 1/4" launch lug
Opening the kit from the heavy gauge plastic bag with hang tag revealed all
of the necessary parts and instructions for the kit. Typical of LOC/Precision
kits, the instructions are on the thin side. Aside from the instructions found
on the folded header card, the bulkhead and shock cord anchor each come with
their own instructions. I gave the instructions a quick "once over"
to see if there were any potential "gotchas" (there weren't any
obvious ones to me). While the kit is a pretty simple 3FNC based on the a
quantity of components, builders that are new to MPR/HPR might struggle through
the minimalist instructions.
The only thing that stood out upon inspecting the overall high quality of
the components was that one of my favorite parts of a mid- or high-power rocket
build had already been taken care of for me: the fin slots had already been cut
into the main airframe tube. However, I'm sure that there are many folks out
there who aren't keen on slotting their tubes so this will probably come as a
great reason for them to consider this kit! Not having to slot the tube should
noticeably reduce the build time of this rocket as well. I did some basic dry
fitting of all components. I was a little surprised to find that the centering
rings and fins required a fair bit of sanding to get a smooth fit without
having to force anything into place. In particular, the fin tabs were all about
1/16" too tall, which left quite a gap between the fin and the outside of
the body tube. My Dremel with a sanding drum came to the rescue and had
everything fitting quite snug in a matter of minutes though.
The leading and trailing edges of the fins were rounded using an orbital
hand sander. Also, holes were drilled in the body tubes for mounting rail
buttons, vent holes to relieve internal air pressure, and for a nylon screw to
hold the nose cone in place and leave the payload bay easily accessible.
Elmer's Probond Wood Glue was used out for the entire construction, except
for the attachment of the shock cord anchor and screw eye. First, I glued and
filleted the forward centering ring onto one end of the motor mount. I dry fit
the aft centering ring 1/2" from the opposite end of the motor tube and
glued the motor tube into the main body tube so that 1/2" of the motor
tube sticks out the aft end of the rocket. Before gluing the fins on though, I
brought out my trusty Dremel with a sanding drum again to lightly sand away
1/4" of the glassine layer all the way around the fin slots so that the
glue could really soak into the tube. Then the fins were attached through the
wall to the MMT using a double glue method one at a time. Once they were dry, I
slid the aft centering ring off and dribbled wood glue into the narrow gap
between the tubes along each side of the fin tabs. A scrap piece of 1/8"
diameter wood dowel was used to spread the glue along the length of the fin
tabs to reinforce the joint to the motor tube and main airframe. The aft
centering ring was glued into place after the internal fillets were completed.
External fin fillets were done with 3 or 4 thin layers of wood glue.
The screw eye was epoxied to the bulkhead using 15-minute epoxy with milled
fiber mixed in. The bulkhead was glued and filleted 1/4" into one end of
the coupler with Elmer's Probond. The coupler was glued halfway into one end of
the payload tube and set aside to dry. Some masking tape was required for the
coupler to have the proper snug fit into the main body tube.
Perhaps the most challenging part of the build is epoxying the shock cord
anchor inside the body tube. After taping the nylon string inside the tube per
the instructions, care must be taken to avoid getting epoxy on the first 3
inches of the tube so that it does not interfere with the fit of the coupler. I
taped a small piece of wax paper inside the tube to make this task much easier.
Then I glued a couple popsicle sticks end-to-end to extend my reach inside the
tube. 15-minute epoxy with milled fiber mixed in was used to properly adhere
the string to the inside of the body tube. The milled fiber not only adds
considerable strength, but thickens the epoxy to the consistency of peanut
butter. An application such as this is simplified because it reduces the
likeliness of epoxy flowing into somewhere unwanted. Dipping the lengthened
popsicle stick into a little rubbing alcohol helped to smooth out the epoxy (to
prevent anything from catching on it during recovery ejection) and make sure
that it thoroughly covered the nylon string.
The last part of the build was to tie the 10 foot long elastic shock cord
to the nylon loop and screw eye. A small loop was tied into the shock cord for
attaching the parachute too.
I passed on the opportunity to attach the launch lug, opting to drill a
pair of holes for rail buttons which were mounted once I completed all of the
on the fins was filled using Elmer's Wood Filler diluted with water
to make it easier to apply then sanded smooth with 220 and 320 grit sandpaper.
The nose cone was washed in warm, soapy water, scraped with a razor utility
knife to remove the excess flashing, and then sanded with 220 grit sandpaper.
The rocket was then primed with a couple coats of Krylon (gray and white)
primer and sanded smooth with 320 grit sandpaper after the first coat and 400
grit after the second.
I attempted to recreate the LOC paint scheme. The entire rocket was painted
with 2 coats of Krylon Gloss White (I wet sanded with 600 grit sandpaper in
between coats) and set aside to dry for a few days. The body tube was then
masked off so the fins could be painted Krylon Sun Yellow Gloss. The nose cone
was painted Krylon Banner Red Gloss then I did a fade with Krylon Plum Gloss.
The vinyl decals came from Graphix
& Stuff. I saw their ad in Sport Rocketry magazine and got a
quote through their website. Their prices are very reasonable, service is top
notch and speedy, and the decals look awesome. While the paint scheme was
virtually identical to the artwork on the LOC/Precision website, I came up with
my own interpretation of the decals.
out of 5
Prepping this rocket isn't notably different than most other mid- or high-power
rockets. I clipped a 9" x 9" Nomex
heat shield and used a quick link to attach the relatively small but adequate
LOC chute and my
onto the shock cord. To get this rocket off the pad, I picked an
AeroTech H128W-M along with a 38-29mm motor adapter for the first flight.
Liftoff was straight up and with rapid acceleration. In light winds
(5-10mph), I didn't notice any .
Ejection was right at apogee and the Nuke Pro Maxx came down safely on the LOC
18" chute. Drift was minimal and I only had a short walk for recovery. Our
launch site is on undeveloped land and the nose cone landed on the road,
causing minor scratches that can be easily touched up. Thankfully the rest of
the rocket landed in the grass.
out of 5
The LOC/Precision Nuke Pro Maxx is a kit that can fly on a wide range of motors
due to the heavy duty components yet overall light weight of the finished
rocket. I have grown accustomed to testing the upper limits of my rockets and
the Nuke Pro Maxx should be able to handle everything I want to throw at it!
out of 5