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REV 2.4 - Tue Aug 17 04:01:00 2010

LOC
Norad
P.O. Box 470396
Broadview Heights OH 44147
(330) 745-9755
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SPECS: 38.75" x 3" - 24 oz
ROCKSIM FILE: Right Click to Download
SpaceCAD FILE: MISSING - please submit here
REC'D MOTORS: 29mm: F50-6, G40-7, G80-7, F52, G33, G64, G104

Rating
(by Carl Tulanko - 12/01/01)

LOC NomadBrief:
The LOC Norad is a kit which has the looks and feel of a military missile and is one of the medium range kits from the LOC line of models. It sports a three inch body that transitions to two inches, uses a four fin configuration and stands over three feet tall.

Modifications:
Fiberglassed Fins, Reinforced Shockcord Mount.

Nomad Parts

Construction:
In the bag you will find a three inch lower body tube pre-slotted for fins, a 3" to 2" plastic transition, a two inch body tube, plastic nosecone, long 29mm motor mount tube, a single centering ring, ¼" elastic shock cord, 24 inch nylon parachute, heavy paper ¼" launch lug and a single page of instructions. All components are of typical LOC quality, from the 1/8" aircraft ply used for fins through the heavy paper body tubes. I was disappointed only in the shock cord and it's side wall mounting; everything else was perfect.

LOC Nomad

Fifteen-minute epoxy was used throughout the construction, which begins with the assembly of the motor mount. A single, very long paper motor mount comes with the kit and the first step is to cut the center out of the plastic transition coupler. It is marked for 29mm and I used an Exacto knife to cut holes on both sides of the transition. The body tube is slipped through the transition coupler and epoxied on the top side. They also want you to glue the single centering ring on the bottom. I wish they would have provided two CR's so the fins could be wedged between them, but the single ring on one end and support of the upper tube by running it through the transition shoulder works fine. I installed the tube in the transition and did not install the lower centering ring until the fins were epoxied and inside fillets were added.

Once the mount is installed, you glue each fin to the motor mount. For a smaller kit, it came equipped with through-the-wall fin mounting, a nice touch on LOC's part. I tapered the leading edge of each fin prior to installation and followed the instructions to the letter. For a single sheet of instructions, it takes you easily through each step, which certainly made building easier. After the fins were installed, I glassed the inside fin area to the body tube and motor mount for added strength, then fillets were added to the inside of these joints. Once completed, the bottom centering ring was epoxied in place.

LOC Nomad The upper body tube is glued over the transition shoulder next and, since I decided to glass the entire rocket, I removed the very top layer of glassine from the upper tube so it would easily soak up the glassing resin. The entire model was fiberglassed using 2 oz cloth and epoxy finishing resin, extra cloth was sanded off and fillets were added to each fin. One of the final steps was to mount the six inch long ¼" heavy paper lug and I added fillets to the lug once it was set in place. The added strength from fiberglassing would bring the weight of the model to about the same as a PML kit and allow me to launch it safely on a high power load.

Construction Rating: 4 of 5

Finishing:
Sanding was done in the filet area using 100 grit paper, then finished with 150 grit sandpaper. White Krylon primer was applied next and I used 150 grit to cut away any excess epoxy resin left from the fiberglassing and to blend in the cloth seams. Use an electric sander in the glassed area, which will cut through the epoxy nicely and blend glass seams well. A few more coats of primer were added, then I wet sanded with 220 grit. Two more coats of primer were added and I finished it up by wet sanding with 400 grit. Any small filling was done next, then two final coats of primer were added and wet sanded with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

This rocket was a gift to my daughter, so it was her turn to decide the colors. For some reason she picked out Pink, as if it was going to be a big surprise, and we decided to highlight it in black. I used Rustoleum Florescent Pink for the main color and Semi-flat Krylon Black for the contrasting color and nosecone. It actually came out looking really nice, surprisingly enough, and she was very happy with the results.

As a final step, the Nosecone and Parachute were to be attached per the instructions. This was a very poor design for such a large rocket. The upper body tube is extra heavy duty Kraft paper, to which they want you to glue a small Kevlar string to the side and attach to the elastic shock cord. Not acceptable to me, especially since this was now an HPR model. I cut a custom 2" diameter centering ring out of ½" thick ply and tapped two ¼" holes in the sides of the ring. Then I installed a ¼" stainless by 1 ½" wide U-bolt through the holes and epoxied this CR in the upper body tube where it butted against the motor mount tube and transition shoulder. A ½" Kevlar strap was tied to the U-bolt and a quick link was used to fasten the parachute. Finally, the other end of the Kevlar was tied to the nosecone. A medium sized Kevlar cloth was also added to eliminate the need for wadding. The end result was a very strong and safe recovery system.

Finish: 2 of 5

Construction Rating: 3 out of 5

LOC Nomad Launch

Flight:
Our first flight was going to be on a H128W with a medium delay, so the motor was assembled and installed into the model. A PMR retainer was used for motor retention, then the parachute was packed. Some masking tape was required on the base of the nosecone to make is snug enough for a good fit. We then waited our turn and finally got the model on the pad. Liftoff was excellent! The rocket boosted swiftly through the air and held together just fine during it's flight. I had one very happy girl next to me when it lifted off.

Recovery:
The parachute deployed right at apogee and the rocket landed about 75 feet away from the pad. We walked out and examined it; the Norad had faired without a scratch and provided us with one great flight and recovery. It was getting late, so no additional flights were made with it, but the Norad will fly again soon.

Flight Rating: 5 out of 5

Summary:
The LOC Norad is one really sweet flying model! It is very easy to build and even though the instructions seem minimal, they are well written. Fiberglassing, although not necessary, was my choice to make it a stronger HPR capable bird. About the only complaint I had was with the recovery system; the parachute is perfect, but the side wall shock cord mounting and elastic cord has a lot to be desired. But I have to admit, for the money you do get LOC quality to include extremely thick walled Kraft body tubes and strong transition and nosecone. The Norad should last us a long time and I look forward to flying it over and over again. Besides, I have a 10 year old that will make sure we put it in the air! I highly recommend the kit and feel it's a great model for all rocketeers!

Overall Rating: 4 out of 5

[Submit your Opinion]

GUEST's OPINION:
11/04 - "Good review of the Norad kit and very helpful. I used 12 minute epoxy for all parts, except the glassing, which was a little fast. I followed Carl's method for the motor mount/centering ring assembly so I could reinforce the fins. I glassed the fins at the mount and at the inside of the tube. I followed the supplied instructions for the recovery system, but added a couple 2x2 squares of 2 oz fiberglass to the point where the string attaches to the inside of the upper body tube to really keep it in place. I didn't have any problems with that setup on my first two flights. This rocket is a nice flyer and looks great." (D.S.)

[Enter Rocket Specific Tip]

SPECIFIC ROCKET TIP:
01/03 - "If you want to convert this kit to a 4X 24mm cluster, buy an extra MMT. When building the kit, set aside the 29mm tube, and make your own centering rings for the cluster of 24mm tubes. Make the cluster tubes short enough that you can fit a parachute in the large 3in tube instead. Take the 3in ring that came with the kit, and make an ejection baffle/shock cord mount out of it by epoxying it just above the ends of the cluster tubes. For extra security, a small section of coupler tube in front of this ring will add strength. Now, you are clustering, able to put the upper compartment to some use, and solving the problem of the weak shock mount that comes with the kit. Be sure to re-check stability as a result of this change!" (J.D. )

SPECIFIC ROCKET TIP:
03/02 - "When installing the motor mount tube, epoxy the motor mount tube to the transition and dry-fit the transition, MM tube and rear centering ring while the epoxy is still soft. When cured, disassemble and apply a generous fillet of epoxy at the MM tube and transition joint. Next epoxy the transition to the airframe, again dry-fitting the rear centering ring for alignment. Next, attach the fins using a small amount of epoxy on the root edge, being sure not to get any on the rear centering ring. When cured, remo" (P.F. of RMR )

[Enter Flight Log]
Date Name Motor Ejection/
Altitude
Wind Notes
05-06-2005 George Beever AT EconoJet G35-7 Apogee - NC Up Calm - I built this model in 1996 - about time I flew it! Nice flight on a G35.
05-27-2007 George Beever AT SU F25-6 None - Unknown 5-10 mph winds - Another older Aerotech motor - no ejection charge. Thankfully the ground was soft - just needs a length of tubing to replace the upper portion and it will fly again.
07-05-2009 George Beever AT RMS F39-6 Apogee - Perfect 5-10 mph winds - First flight on model since it's rebuild. Great flight, but I should have used a bigger chute. No damage.
02-19-2005 Robert Dav AT RMS G64-7 Just Past (1-2sec) 5-10 mph winds Event: Alamogordo Winter RSL
- Excellent lift-off and straight flight. Nice late chute deployment since it was windy. Drifted around 2000 - 3000' though and I almost couldn't find it in tall grass. Friend found it after about 2 hours.
11-13-2004 Robert Davis AT RMS F52-5 Apogee - NC Down 0-5 mph winds Event: Celebration of Flight RSL
- Perfect launch and flight. Supplied 28 chute did a good job bringing her down, but could have been slower. No altimeter, but made it up about 800' or so.
11-13-2004 Robert Davis AT RMS G64-7 Apogee - Perfect 0-5 mph winds Event: Celebration of Flight RSL
- Got up about 1200' or so. Nice lift off and flight.
12-18-2004 Robert Davis AT RMS G64-7 Apogee - NC Up Calm - Nice lift-off and good flight. Appeared to spin a little once it reached over 600'. Chute received a couple burn holes, but it will still work.
01-15-2005 Robert Davis AT RMS G33-5 Apogee - NC Down Calm - Nice smoky lift-off with the blackjack motor to around 700', maybe a little more. This motor works fine in this rocket. Will use this one again.
05-06-2007 Brian Guzek AT RMS F40-7 None - CATO 0-5 mph winds Event: Reach For the Sky XIX
- Forward closure blow-by. Amazing to watch, 6 flame from nozzle, 3 foot flame out the top. Rebuildable, with a little sanding to get the char out.
06-23-2007 Bryant Lange AT RMS F40-7 Very Late 5-10 mph winds Event: Rocket Fest 07
- Shot up very quickly, very impressive boost on the small motor. Delay is way too long, seemed to take forever to eject. Recovered nearby.
02-02-2008 Jordan Ryan AT RMS F52-6 None - Unknown 0-5 mph winds Event: great meadow
- came down at about 120mph and took a core sample about 1' in
03-02-2008 Jordan Ryan AT RMS G64-7 Just Past (1-2sec) 0-5 mph winds Event: great meadow
-
03-02-2008 Jordan Ryan AT RMS G71-10 None - Unknown 0-5 mph winds Event: great meadow
- blow by but will fly again
03-02-2008 Jordan Ryan AT SU G80-7 Apogee - Perfect 0-5 mph winds Event: great meadow
- new g80
09-18-2005 Darrell Smith AT RMS H238-10 Apogee - NC Down
(1507 ft)
0-5 mph winds - This was the Norad Pro Maxx. Nice straight boost. Cracked a fin on recovery.
11-17-2001 Carl Tulanko AT RMS H128-M Apogee - Perfect Calm - First flight on fully glassed Norad. Came off the pad fast! Perfect launch and deploy and landed 75' away from pad. Great HPR rocket; alt was around 2600'
   

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