(Contributed - by John Coker ) Note: For more EZI pictures, visit John's site.
The Loc/Precision EZI-65 kit is the rocket which is supposed to get me my
Tripoli level 2 certification. This is a high-performance rocket which is
reasonably stable and should give outstanding flights on I and J motors. (Of
course, as is typical for me, I've done things backwards and have already built
several larger rockets.)
The rec.models.rockets community
seemed to favor the Loc/Precision EZI-65 as the ideal level 1 certification
rocket. However, I'd already purchased the I-ROC and since it has a 38mm motor
mount, it seemed more appropriate for level 1 (H and I motors). The EZI-65
flies on I and J motors (it has a 54mm motor mount), which is just up into the
level 2 .
The color scheme Loc/Precision chose is hideous, so I decided to go wild on
this rocket and do it as modern art. I also had just found a new kind of Krylon
paint: Brass metallic, which I wanted to try. If it isn't obvious, imagine an
abstract painting (such as a
Mondrian, a Dutch geometric painter) with the fins and nose
as the picture frame. (OK, so it is a bit of a stretch.)
I shredded the original rocket attempting my level 2 certification, but a
rebirth was completed as a
Rocketry
OnlineHow-To Classroom forum series, which has also been turned into
a Tech. Series article so I have removed the detailed
information from this page. Join us and build a super-strong rocket and
certify in style with advanced high-power construction techniques and recovery
!
The Pictures
On the left is the original EZI-65, built as per the kit instructions. On
the right is the "level 2" version: fiberglassed, with
dual-deployment and a better copy of a Mondrian painting.
 The EZI-65 launches, apparently perfectly, sporting wild modern
art colors. |
 Not much was recovered. A doesn't leave much. |
On its maiden flight, the EZI-65 shredded spectacularly. It appeared to
disintegrate about 100 feet off the ground. We never figured out why it
shredded--perhaps a fin came off. The tail of the rocket was never recovered,
although we did find the undamaged nose later.
The rebuilt EZI (now the EZI-130) flew for the first time at ROC-stock in
Lucerne Valley, on November 15th. The spectacular flight on a J800 will not
be the last!
 |
 |
| Now you see it... |
Now you don't. |
The flight was dramatic, with a total altitude of 6322 feet (as measured by
the Missile Works RRC2). The parachute never fully came out of the
payload section (as you can see in the picture below), but the strong
construction of the rocket saved it as it came down, braked by the three
sections of its . Next flight will be with a smaller parachute
which will fit more easily into the payload section. Too bad there's not enough
room for a piston.
The Kit
The instructions for this kit were standard Loc/Precision: just enough
information on the back of the kit card.
The color scheme they chose is hideous, so I decided to go wild on this rocket
and do it as modern art as you can see. The Krylon Brass
metallic paint is pretty neat, but requires ultra careful preparation as it
shows defects even more than white. Also, my paint job came out much flatter
looking (even with a Crystal Clear coat) than the cap on the can.
The EZI-65 kit isn't really strong enough for level-2 motors
if built stock. See my Rocketry Online
Tech. Series article for a detailed description of building
it for level-2 certification.

(Contributed - by Tai Fu)
Brief:
This rocket is a high power flight capable, being large it is supposed to make
a low and slow flight. I am writing this review because John Cocker's review
does not seem detailed enough and his article is for Level 2 capable EZI-65 but
that would be overkill if one only wants to use this rocket for his Level 1.
Construction:
The kit came in a plastic bag, one long tube with slots for airframe, and one
shorter tube as a payload section. The nose cone is quite large. It came with
only 2 plywood centering rings, and I recommend getting an additional centering
ring of the same size. The motor mount tube is a little short, it is better to
get something a little longer, but the stock should be okay. The fins are
regular plywood. Unlike the LOC IV which has fins but not to
the motor mount, this kit's fins goes to the motor mount which is one of the
reasons why I chose it over the LOC IV. The shock cord is standard nylon
elastic which is the same kind as in your underpants, only that it should stay
where it belongs, in your underpants. Get at least 20 ft of tubular nylon or
Kevlar®, if you use nylon somehow protect the first 3 ft of the nylon from
, or else after a few flights the nylon will burn and break. I
don't recommend using the LOC shock cord mount either, instead get an eye bolt
and some washers. Drill a hole in one of the centering rings and bolt the eye
bolt and put washer between the eye and the centering ring and another between
the centering ring and the nut. Make sure the eye is parallel to the airframe
as you will not have much space for the eyebolt. Attach a to the
eyebolt, and ALWAYS put some epoxy on the thread of the eyebolt (but NOT the
quick link!) because you won't have access to the other side of the centering
ring in case the eyebolt/nuts loosens. One thing I like about quick links is
that it allows you to basically disassemble the rocket and remove all the
to make it easier to paint.
If one has good experience with building kits, one should not need the
instructions. I never read the instructions while putting together the kit, so
I can't comment on that, but I do know the instructions comes on the back of
the card of the packaging. The rocket is very large when put together, if one
has not built rockets weighting over a pound, this rocket will surprise you! I
haven't built many rocket weighting over a pound except the NCR Lance Beta and
this rocket makes the Lance Beta look like a dwarf!
One thing about the fin attachments, do use internal fillets after gluing
the fins in place. I recommend 3 CR's because one centering ring would go on
top of the MMT (that's the one with the eyebolt and quick links, make sure the
eye faces up!) and a second CR goes on top of the fin tab. (Before doing any of
this please try to peel off the glassine layer of the MMT, it allows the glue
to soak in making a stronger bond.) After the glue cures glue the whole
assembly (MMT) into the tube, making sure the second CR lines up with the top
of the slots. Then glue each fin and the inside. After all the joints
inside has been filleted and the glue has cured, go ahead and glue in the last
CR. I know it's a bit of an overkill to do internal fillets, but it's better
safe than sorry (this rocket will be my cert flight so I want to make sure
nothing goes wrong...)
Finishing:
Always take the nose cone, wash it with soap and water to remove the release
agents. Even after doing this the paint still doesn't like to stick to the nose
cone... I used Polyfiber UV fill prime, at 38 dollars a quart it is a bit too
expensive but it sands like a dream and it might be a good idea to use anyway
since UV lights will damage epoxy and your rocket is held together with epoxy
so its better to keep them out. A few coats on the rocket and wait a few hours
making sure the primer dried, then sand, sand, sand! This stuff sands as good
as Elmer's wood . I then took the rocket apart since this is such a large
rocket, I painted the nose cone and the payload and the body section
separately. I painted the nose cone gold and the payload is painted red with
black roll patterns, and the body is white with a red . I used krylon
and after everything dried I went over with clear coat then Lacquer and it
makes a very shiny and glossy finish.
Construction Rating:
4
out of 5
Flight:
My first flight on a G80 is very good, perfect boost and recovery despite the
strong wind. I was going to certify on this rocket so I had to make sure
everything works the way it is supposed to work. The parachute came out at
and it drifted quite a bit (because of the wind). I had to walk a bit to
get the rocket back, it landed without damage.
Flight Rating:
5
out of 5
Summary:
I feel this rocket is good and it is easy to put together. Anyone who puts
together a LPR should be able to put this kit together, however the shock cord
isn't that good, and they could use a longer motor mount.
Overall Rating:
4
½ out of 5
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