- by Moira Jean Whitlock
description: This is an all balsa wood glider that flies up like a rocket
and is recovered when it glides down like an airplane.
Pros and cons of construction: The parts are all there, secure within
a plastic bag, Nothing was broken or defective. The fuselage of the model is
panels of die cut plywood, as are the wings and . The motor tube is
spiral wound paper. You also get blue modeling clay for trimming the glider. Do
be careful with that stage, as I'll later tell you why. There is self-adhesive
metallic tape to provide canard movement. All the moving parts in the recovery
mechanism are balsa too. At apogee, the motor ejects, pushing a bulkhead
forward, which locks down the canard, allowing gliding flight.
The instructions are illustrated and clear, logical in order, and the model
goes together simple and precisely. Wood glue is fine for this. Sanding sealer
and sanding makes the wood smooth and protects it. The model is overall sturdy
and a looker.
Pros and cons about finishing: A simple paint job is
enough, but I placed strips of shiny self adhesive craft paper along the wings
and canard for looks, like the manufacturer picture. I chose a red, green, and
metallic color scheme.
Rating for construction and finishing:
out of 5
Pros and cons for flight:
Recommended motors are: Apogee 1/4A2-2, 1/2A2-2, A2-5, and B2-5. I chose
the B2-5. This is the truly embarrassing part. Gliders aren't like rockets.
Whereas rockets become stabler when weight is added nose-ward, gliders don't.
They soar down nose first in a if so. I placed the clay provided in
the nose. When the model flew on an Apogee B2-5, it went up, then laterally,
nearly beheading a fellow rocketeer. He teased me for weeks, saying that I was
out to get him. The model thudded to the ground, losing a wing and fragmenting
the nose. I took the pieces home and rebuilt it.
Oddly, repair went well, and the model looks a little veteran-like, but
flyable. I trimmed it with extensive tosses in my garden with tested weighting
tailward and lightening the nose. I fixed it so that it flew straight without
stalling or diving. So I tried again with a B2-5 in an empty park, where I
could keep it to myself if it decided to act up again. This time, it flew in
little circles and came to rest about a hundred feet downrange.
Pros and cons about recovery: Remember, don't weight
the nose too much! When recovery goes right, the glider arcs in graceful
circles on its way down. Nice.
Rating for flight and recovery:
out of 5(when done right)
Summary: Easy to build, rugged and easy to repair. Attractive. Pretty
circular glides. Not a bad price at $12.95. Don't overweight the nose, and do
test-toss it before flight. I also recommend Apogee's
technical publication on glider trimming. It helped me with my repairs and
(Contributed - by Hank Helmen - 03/26/06)
The Edmonds Ecee is a balsa single stage 1/2A sized rocket boosted canard glider that uses variable geometry during
A plastic bag contains all laser cut balsa wood. The particular kit built for review had very lightweight wood.
Perhaps too light. More on that later.
Included in the kit are nicely laser cut parts, two sheets printed front and back of instructions, one body tube,
tape for the (canard) hinge, and a launch lug.
The four pages of instructions are great and easy to follow. Building the Ecee is a breeze. It took my six year
old son and me less than an hour to finish. The fuselage is square and was a little tight around the body tube. Do not
glue the round dowel into the body tube, as it must be free to slide in order to activate the canard elevators.
Once everything was together, it came out OK. I had to use a little plastic modeler's clamp to hold the fuselage while
gluing. Also I used some 90 degree steel blocks to support the fins while gluing. Make sure you get the ejection charge
exhaust hole pointed downward and toward the front of the fuselage, It needs to line up with the 1/4 inch slot in the
bottom. This kit seems a little flimsy since the balsa is so soft.
The only tools required were a bottle of white glue, a sanding stick with some fine sandpaper on it, and a hobby
knife. I used some CA glue on some parts. The finished rocket does come out light.
Rocket gliders need to be light. Conventional finishing with normal paint will add a lot of weight. For this reason,
trim markings were added to wings and fuselage with Sharpie Magic markers.
There are no decals included in the kit. The Ecee looks very cool when finished as it has a nice full fuselage
and canard wing design that are attractive and aerodynamic looking.
out of 5
The recommended motors are 13mm 1/2A3-2T and A3-4T. For the initial test launch, we chose an Estes A3-4T. To prepare
the glider for boost, a pencil must be used to push the canard elevator to the aft position. The ejection
charge pressurizes the internal body tube and pushes the little balsa dowel actuator against the elevator control horn
to make it deflect downward approximately 15 degrees. In theory, you should get a straight boost then a nice glide. The
model should be hand flight tested with the elevator deflected full down and a spent engine case in.
Test glides were great. A tiny bit of clay was added to the rear of the fuselage for good balance.
The motor is held in place by clear tape. A wrap of tape is put around the motor where it fits into the body tube
and a little more on the outside of the case where it sticks out, to prevent it from pushing up into the tube during
launch. There is no motor stop ring in the kit. No recovery wadding is needed for the Ecee
The very first flight was a scary disaster! Just 15 feet above the launch pad, the Ecee's left main
wing separated right in the middle! The vehicle veered over 90 degrees in a rapid series of fiery smoking tumbles and
gyrations. We dove for cover as the model tumbled around the sky until the engine finally ejected. What was left of the
wreckage then tumbled to the ground. On closer inspection it was discovered that in addition to the broken wing, the
elevator had broken off at the hinge line.
There is no shock cord on the Ecee. Preparing the glider for launch is conventional. The recovery was disappointing
to say the least as this thing had flown so nicely in all the test glides. The damaged wing and elevator should be
relatively easy to repair, and we will return to flight in a day or two.
On the second flight, the wing held together nicely but boost was a bad arch right into the ground. The fuselage
broke in two just behind the canard.
out of 5
We really liked the way this kit looked when it was finished. The ease of assembly is a real bonus. The glide of the
Ecee is very realistic and majestic. That is why it was such a disappointment when it shredded on the very first
launch. The wings could be a little denser grade of balsa. We had to add tail weight anyway so this wouldn't be a
problem with overall weight.
out of 5
(Contributed - by Alan Rognlie)
After my good experience with Edmonds Deltie, I decided to try this model from Rob
Edmonds. I ordered it from Apogee
Components (along with a second Deltie, a plan set for a Nike Hercules and
a couple of his technical reports) and it arrived within 4-5 days. This kit
builds to a nice mini-motor (13mm) - i.e. no parts are dropped at
ejection. During boost, the movable portion of the canard is free to move.
Actually, with the positioner placed under the movable portion the canard tends
to have a negative incidence. The ejection charge pushes forward a body tube
plug that forces the canard to positive incidences. All the balsa parts for
this kit are laser-cut, except for the nose and the BT plug. Like a Deltie,
this results in a self-jigging kit that is extremely easy to build. The only
nit I have to pick is that Rob does not include an engine hook or an engine
block in the kit. The engine is to be held in place with masking tape. I added
an engine block to positively position the motor during boost, and I'll hope
the tape will hold the motor casing at ejection.