There's No Place Better - EMRR! EMRR Rocks!
the basic, real and invariable nature of a thing!

 

5 Guests On
  myEMRR
[Logo]

REV 2.4 - Mon Aug 16 11:36:15 2010

Aerocon
FFR VL-1 The FlippiFin
4170 Golf Dr
San Jose, CA 95127
(408) 277001
  All   More Like This   Previous   Next

SPECS: 29.5" x 1.25" - 7.8 oz
ROCKSIM FILE: Right Click to Download
SpaceCAD FILE: MISSING - please submit here
REC'D MOTORS: E15-4, E30-4, if more nose weight is added: F, G

Rating
(Contributed - by Kevin Trojanowski [Who's Who Page] - 04/01/02)

Brief:
The FlippiFin is a unique design that uses a surplus spring-loaded military flare fincan. When loaded into its launch tube, the curved fins are flat against the body. When the rocket exits the tube, the springs pop the fins out, providing stabilization.

Picture courtesy of Aerocon
Rocket Pic

Construction:
Most of the parts for the FlippiFin are your standard rocket fare: a body tube, plastic nosecone, shock cord material, parachute and centering rings. In keeping with Aerocon's large line of surplus military equipment, the included parachute is a surplus olive drab X-form. The most important component, of course, is the spring-loaded fincan, which gives the FlippiFin its name. Due to the weight of the fincan, the necessary 2.6oz of noseweight required to keep the rocket stable is also included. Rather than the elastic we see in some kits, the FlippiFin's shock cord comes in two parts. The first is a thin Kevlarsc rollbars=no,menubar=no'); ">® cord which is used to provide an anchor to a tab on the fincan. This cord is small enough in diameter that, if used alone, it would easily zipper the body tube. To prevent this, the exposed portion of the shock cord is a much wider length of different material which will help protect the body tube.

Assembly of the FlippiFin is very straightforward, with no real surprises. A bit of trial and error is required in fitting the fincan, due to its nonstandard dimensions. To install the fincan, masking tape is used to create centering rings on the motor mount. Since no two brands of masking tape are exactly identical in thickness, the instructions give an approximation on the number of wraps required. I found that I had to remove some of the tape in order to get a good fit. Since the actual mounting rings on the fincan are only about 1/8" wide, after achieving the proper thickness, I used an X-acto knife to trim their width down so the tape is completely hidden by the fincan. Once the tape rings are properly sized, the single most critical aspect of the construction is next -- gluing the fincan in place with thin CA. Here, the instructions state to make sure the fins still open after gluing. The implied warning isn't nearly strong enough! It took 3 seconds of CA work to render my fincan inoperative. It took 3 HOURS of work to clean the CA out of the hingset. On my second attempt, I used a bottle of CA with a small (approx 1mm) applicator extension tip, which allowed very fine control of the CA. With the extension tip, I got sufficient CA wicked into the tape to harden those, as well as enough to form a good solid bond between the fincan and the tape. And, most importantly, my fincan works as it should! I plan on suggesting to Aerocon that they recommend the use of an extension tip in their instructions.

Finishing:
The metal fincan on the FlippiFin introduces an extra challenge in painting. Applying paint to the fincan would have the same effect as getting CA into the hingset and springs -- the fincan would no longer operate. Because of this, the fincan is best masked off for spray-painting, and any finishing of the fincan area should be done by hand. The instructions recommend using a Sharpie-type black marker to color in the motor mount tube that is visible between the opened fins. Careful application of paint with a small paintbrush would work as well, and would allow for more color options.

Construction Rating: 4 ½ out of 5

Flight:
Since spring flying season is just starting here in Nebraska, I've only had one opportunity to launch my FlippiFin, at our most recent high-power launch. Launch opportunities for the FlippiFin will be limited in general, due to the metal fincan. The instructions explicitly state that this rocket is not approved for use at NAR launches, so plan accordingly! The instructions list three motors, only two of which I listed in this review. The D12 is listed as a "marginal" flight, due to rocket weight. When the vendor lists a motor as "marginal", to me, that means "don't use it!" The other two motors are single-use Aerotech motors, while all the 24mm motors I buy are RMS, so I decided to go that route, instead, and made use of an F39 I had available. Preparation of the rocket is no different than most others. A small handful of cellulose insulation, followed by the parachute and shock cord, then the nosecone. The 24mm RMS motor was given a TIGHT friction fit with a bit of masking tape, to make sure I got my casing back, and everything was just about ready to go. Igniter installation gains a slightly different twist, due to the tube launcher. The igniter is installed in the motor, the breech plug removed from the tube, and the rocket slid in. The igniter leads must then pass out a small opening right above the breech plug, then the plug can be reinstalled. The tube launcher itself has a launch lug, to allow a standard rod to hold the launcher vertical. This is placed on the pad, and the exposed igniter leads hooked up. On the F39 I've used thus far, the rocket literally EXPLODES from the tube. The effect is incredibly, and everyone jumped, due to the noise. One club member who was about 150 yards off, recovering one of his own rockets, though it was a CATO, instead of a launch!

Recovery:
Having misplaced the original parachute, I substituted another parachute of approximately the same size. Recovery was perfect, with nary a ding on the rocket. The rear of the rocket, does have some minor black markings, due to the rocket exhaust being contained by the tube launcher, something the instructions mention will happen.

Flight Rating: 5 out of 5

Summary:
The only true detraction to the FlippiFin is the limit that some people will experience in launch opportunities for this rocket. If your local club is a NAR club, and you only have opportunities to fly under their rules, the FlippiFin is not for you. If you hold private launches, or have a local Tripoli prefect, then this is a fun little rocket! The metal fincan and tube launcher makes for a unique, but safe, addition to a launch. While some may feel the metal fincan makes the rocket "unsafe", I feel it is no less safe than the G10 fins we see on some similar-sized rockets.

Overall Rating: 5 out of 5


Rating
(Contributed - by David Reese)

Rocket PicBrief:
Unique tube-launched rocket with folding military surplus fin can.

Construction:
I had always wanted a FlippiFin -- the concept seemed interesting. I got one for my birthday a year ago, and only recently got around to building it. The components were basic Estes (plastic nose cone, paper body tube), with the exception of the recovery system and the unique folding fin can, which was military surplus. A nice waterslide decal was also included. For recovery, Bob supplied a generous length of fiberglass-reinforced Teflon for the shock cord, a length of Kevlar® to secure it to the motor mount, and an 18" military surplus chute to round out the theme.

The instructions were printed on two sheets of 8.5 x 11" paper, and were somewhat minimal, although this rocket was very easy to assemble. Two centering rings are installed onto the front of the 24mm motor mount, and two more centering rings must be built up out of masking tape to attach the fin can. You slide the fins on, and then everything is glued in place. I used 5-minute epoxy and carefully watched it cure to make sure none got in the delicate hinge assemblies. The shock cord is attached to a hook on the fin can with a Fisherman's knot, and the whole shebang is installed into the main body tube. A unique option was presented: simply friction fit the fin can into the tube, allowing for easy shock cord replacement. I elected to do this instead of epoxying the unit in. Finally, an anchor is bent out of a paper clip and installed into the nose cone, along with lead shot for balance weight. I added some PML expanding foam behind the shot for a little G-force protection.

Finishing:
I finished the rocket with one coat of Krylon white primer, and then proceeded to paint the rocket in Krylon gray and red. One thing about finishing is that you need to be careful not to get any paint in the hinges on the fin can. I colored the exposed motor tube black using a Sharpie pen. The waterslide decal completes the look.

Construction Rating: 4 ½ out of 5

Flight:
The recommended motors were single use Aerotechs, none of which I had on hand. I instead elected to fly one of my year-old F24Ws. I built the motor and tape fitted it in tightly, not wanting to lose my precious case. Positive motor retention would be a nice feature. I loaded the front end of the rocket with wadding and the chute. It was a tight fit, but all the recovery did slide in. I strutted out to the pad and inserted the rocket in the breech launch tube. I constructed a special launch pad for my breech tube because I wasn't comfortable with just sticking it on a 3/16" launch rod as suggested in the instructions (though that would probably be fine). After hooking up one of my Igniterman igniters, I walked back to the range head and told the LCO to push the button. He gave a huge buildup and countdown, and hit it. The motor chuffed once. Twice. The third chuff was enough to send the rocket out of the tube, and then combustion stopped again. I thought the rocket was going to tip over and go into the crowd, but just as it was falling back down, the thing screamed into the sky, with a little wiggle. It looked very much like a cruise missile :). The chute ejected at apogee, and I went to recover it.

Recovery:
Descent was a little fast on the 18" chute, but no big deal, there was absolutely no damage. All I had to do was wipe the rocket down to get rid of the breech soot and it was ready to fly again. Too cool.

Flight Rating: 5 out of 5

Summary:
This rocket was easy to build and unique. The only problem that I have with it was that it has no positive motor retention, so I might lose my precious 24mm case. However, I would not hesitate to recommend it to anyone. Just make sure you have a nice hot igniter and scratch up the grain a bit if it's an old motor :) I'd love to fly this again on an F39T.

Overall Rating: 4 ½ out of 5


Rating
(Contributed - by Frank G. Whitby - 09/28/04)

Brief:
Flippifin is an unusual tube-launched, folding fin rocket.

Aerocon Systems Flippifin

Construction:
The kit comes with all of the elements to construct the rocket. The key element is the lightweight steel folding fin assembly that derives from a surplus military flare. The plastic nosecone will require added weight to offset the relatively heavy fin unit on this lightweight model rocket, so the kit comes with lead shot for noseweight. The kit comes with some shock cord of appropriate material however it is too short. The military surplus chute that came with the kit is overkill and makes flight preparation tricky due to its bulk. I substituted a slightly smaller, cheap square nylon chute that could be packed in half the volume. Recovery was safe and there was no damage to the rocket when using this chute.

This kit provides an unusual building and flying experience. The rocket can be assembled in an hour or two. The 24mm cardboard airframe is fitted to the metal fin unit in a very straightforward manner using improvised tape centering rings and CA glue. As mentioned in the instructions, do not use too much CA. I amused myself for more than 1 hour cleaning excess CA from the hinges with acetone and Q-tips. My freshly humbled ego forced me to reengage my brain and I proceeded to finish the rocket. It went together very easily and is suitable for anyone who has built a few model rockets and enjoys a slight challenge. The Kevlar® attachment of the shock cord is good, but the shock cord itself is way too short. I ditched the material that came in the kit and used 8 feet of medium-duty elastic that I had on hand. Once I had completed assembly, I decided to look at the instructions again. That is when I noticed that there is a clear description of how to attach the fin assembly to the airframe and that in fact, the fins have a front and rear end. I was surprised to see that I had put them on backwards. I decided to check out the Aerocon website and noticed for the first time that Bob Fortune has this very nice little slide show that walks you through construction and points out the differences between the fore and aft ends of the fin assembly. My ego was bruised once again and I sent an email to Bob who assured me that my brain is probably no more feeble than the average doofus and that I should forge ahead and fly the Flippifin anyway. This turned out to be excellent advice. I never told Bob how I had dumped a quart of CA all over the fins and had spent all afternoon breathing acetone fumes while trying to get the fins cleaned up... I epoxied all of the lead shot in the nosecone as per instructions.

Bob does not place much emphasis on the launch tube, but he does mention some experimentation that has been done with it. I think that the launcher may be an area where some improvements or modifications could be made that may significantly improve the flight performance of the rocket. Bob alludes to this in the kit and leaves it up to the modeler to use a little creativity.

Thus, I decided to think about the launcher when I should have been doing more important things. I decided that for the initial launch of Flippifin I would make any modifications to the launch system as long as I could complete the modifications in one hour or less. Naturally, I started this process at about 3:00am in the garage after having consumed some rocket fuel. I decided that I wanted a strong rear seal on the tube that would still allow quick preparation for flight. To satisfy these requirements, I cut a couple of flanges from trash plywood paneling about twice the diameter of the launch tube and drilled a hole in one of them to slide onto the tube. It then cut these into a sort of "C" shape so that the tube could nestle up against a launch rod or some such pole. I cut a plug and bolted this to the solid flange. I then drilled three holes around the perimeter of the flange so they could be bolted together. I epoxied the open flange an couple of inches from one end of the launch tube. I now had a way to quickly and easily bolt the bottom flange/plug on to the tube for a secure base. I should have used some higher quality plywood for the flanges as they were mangled a bit when I had a slight mishap at the first launch but they still work fine. I will make them a bit more streamlined and beefier on future launch systems. I think the launch system deserves more attention and this kit is wonderful in that it opened my mind to all sorts of possibilities.

Aerocon Systems Flippifin

Upon examining the fit of Flippifin in the launch tube, I decided that I wanted to better conserve the pressurized gas that forms behind the rocket upon motor firing. Bob mentioned in the instructions that wadding or a piece of felt at the rear of the rocket might help. I decided to cut a simple, floating centering ring (a seal disk of sorts) from plywood. I figured that it would help capture the ignition gases and push up against the rear of the rocket and fall off as the rocket exited the launch tube. I have no proof that this improves performance, but my hunch is that it does. My brain suffered a moment of extreme ingenuity at this point and I painted this little disk bright orange so that it would be easier to find after launch. I can pat myself on the back for figuring out that little trick, because it took several minutes to locate the disk after launch even though it was bright orange and it would have been lost for sure if it was unpainted. I think there may still be some hope in this world that I will one day succeed... doin' sumpthin', I suppose...

PROs: Simple construction. Enjoyable assembly with clear instructions. Fin assembly fits both ways and still seems to work just fine. Website has an excellent tutorial for those bright enough to check it out prior to construction. The launch system provides the possibility for a variety of modifications that will be cheap and simple.

CONs: Shock cord is too short. Fin assembly does not come with an automatic doofus alarm to warn you that your brain is switched off and that you are about to install the fin assembly upside down.

Finishing:
Following construction I decided to finish Flippifin in colors that go well with the neat little decal that comes with the kit. It has kind of an all-American red, white, and blue scheme, so I decided to go patriotic and paint Flippifin like a flag. After completing most of this process, it occurred to me that I had in fact, produced a reasonable facsimile of the French flag. The Flippifin decal matches nicely, and I am quite proud de mon petit oeuvre d'art. The paint job consisted of a coat of primer, a light sanding, and enough of the three colors to make it look right. I think I pretty much just used one coat of each. As the instructions indicated, I was careful not to paint the fins. I will once again point out my stroke of genius when I endeavored to paint the floating centering ring bright orange.

Construction Rating: 5 out of 5

Flight:
FLIGHT: Construction mishaps behind me, I set Flippi-Doodle aside and waited for the chance to launch it. I waited with increasing impatience as the long hot days of August and September ticked by in Utah. Perfect flying days number fewer than 300 per year here and I did not want them all to pass me by before I had a chance to test out the tube launcher and the folding-fin contraption. I finally put it to the test in late September. There was a gentle breeze from the Southeast, visibility was less than 50 miles but still quite respectable, and I think there might have been a cloud at one point but the sky otherwise suffered only from a distinctive desert shade of blue.

I had some ACME conformal launch lugs on the launch tube so that I could place the tube on a rail well away from the flight line at a club launch. The rail was about 10 feet tall, and I was afraid that the fins might tangle in the rail slot if the rocket exited the tube alongside the rail. Thus, I taped the tube high on the rail with the mouth of the tube above the top of the rail. Unfortunately, the force of the launch on an E30 knocked the tube down the rail, ripping off the lugs, and smashing the plywood flanges at the rear where they collided with the blast deflector. No serious harm was done though. In the final analysis, I think the tube can just be taped to any old launch device or pole stuck in the ground so long as it is secure. I never saw any hint that the fins might tangle in the rail, but I suppose it is possible so some measure should be taken to prevent this. The rear of the tube should definitely rest on a firm surface. It was not good to suspend the tube like I did on the first launch.

The first launch on the AT SU E30-7 was surely a fine sight. I don't know exactly how fast I should expect this rocket to leave the ground on this motor, but it shot out of the tube with surprising speed and a muffled kind of a pop. The floating seal ring was recovered, the launch system rigged again in a sturdier fashion and the second launch was on an AT SU F21-8 Econojet. The launch was again perfect. I do not have an altimeter since I destroyed mine recently following a moment of brainlessness, but I suspect that Flippi-Doodle went well over 2000 feet. The speed and suddenness of takeoff are satisfying.

I read in the instructions and on EMRR that the rocket will get coated with soot from the launch. The floating seal ring seems to prevent this. As seen in the pictures, after two launches, the rocket is clean (I did not wipe it off after the launches) but the seal ring is filthy. For this reason alone, even if the ring does not improve performance, which I still suspect it might, I will continue to use the floating seal disk as described. I think I will cut several of them because it can be tricky to find them after launch despite the bright color.

Recovery:
PROs: Launch tube system worked well. Rocket flies incredibly fast and straight as an arrow. Reversing the fin can did not seem to make the rocket fly backwards...

CONS: None.

Flight Rating: 5 out of 5

Summary:
I give Flippifin my highest possible marks. This kit is simple and can probably be flown without ever pondering the possibilities that exist if one was to experiment a little with the rocket and the launch tube. I think that this rocket is as safe to launch as any mid-power or high-power model rocket out there. My experiences with this kit exceeded my expectations. I plan to fly it again and again.

Overall Rating: 5 out of 5

[Submit your Opinion]

GUEST's OPINION:
"" (x.x.)

[Enter Rocket Specific Tip]

SPECIFIC ROCKET TIP:
"" (x.x.)

[Enter Flight Log]
Date Name Motor Ejection/
Altitude
Wind Notes
04-23-2005 Keenan Cox AT RMS H242-10 Didn't See
(1100 ft)
5-10 mph winds - Second attempt at Level 1. This time, it hit a rock and snapped the same fin off. Again, it was unsuccessful. I am going to try again on an H180. Cert Flight: L1
09-26-2004 Frank Whitby AT EconoJet F21-8 Apogee - NC Down 0-5 mph winds Event: Utah desert
Flippi-Doodle - Second flight of the day. Floating plywood seal disk appears to take all of the soot in the tube, leaving Flippifin prefectly clean. Super rapid takeoff to 2000+(?) feet. Nice to the extreme! Zero damage.
09-26-2004 Frank Whitby AT SU E30-7 Apogee - NC Down 0-5 mph winds Event: Utah desert
Flippi-Doodle - Perfectly straight, super-rapid boost to impressive altitude. Launched from the stock tube launcher with tight plywood rear seal, and supplementary floating plywood CR/seal disk in tube.
10-02-2004 Frank Whitby AT EconoJet F21-8 Apogee - NC Down 0-5 mph winds Event: Nuthin' Special Saturday
Flippi-Doodle - Perfect boost to 2000+ ft. (?), extreme loud bang with tight Estes wadding behind ring. Ring lost. Estes wadding in rocket allowed chute to be toasted, acting as bad streamer, recovery was fast tumble. No damage, ready to fly again.
10-16-2004 Frank Whitby Apo SU E6-8 Just Past (1-2sec) 5-10 mph winds Event: UROC sport launch
Flippi-Doodle - Lift off weight 272g, Apogee says 150g max for this motor (7+ sec burn). Sexy, slow take-off, rocket spinning, perfect boost, just kept on going and going (2000 ft?). Very different than previous flights. Perfect recovery.
02-26-2005 Frank Whitby AT RMS F39-7 Apogee - Perfect 0-5 mph winds Event: UROC misfire alley
Flippi-Doodle - Used the same standard launch tube with the thrust ring as in previous flights. Fast burst out of the tube, hard to see at apogee against thin clouds. Awesome flight, perfect recovery on 12-inch mylar chute.
02-26-2005 Frank Whitby Est SU E9-4 Very Early 0-5 mph winds Event: UROC misfire alley
Flippi-Doodle - Again, launch tube with the thrust ring. Ring landed at my feet. E9 gives a very nice smoky takeoff and impressive altitude but the 4 sec. delay too short. No damage despite rapid descent on twisted 12-inch chute.
08-06-2005 Frank Whitby Ellis SU G37-6 Didn't See Calm Event: HellFire-11 night launch
Flippidoodle - Extreme Flippifin flight - excellent. Delay too short, chute shred, still excellent recovery, 200 yards away. Flippidoodle is rugged but now needs some rebuild. Shot from 14-foot, 2-inch pvc tube. Our favorite rocket.
   

Please Help Make Us Better!   

•  Copyright ©1998-2009  •   EMRR   •   Legal/Privacy   •   Disclaimer   •